With its waterfront restaurants, ice-cream parlours and chic boutiques, Port El Kantaoui has the "now" factor. As soon as it was built, over 25 years ago, this smart marina became popular both as the focal point of a fine new resort and as a port-of-call for the Mediterranean jet set on their swanky yachts. Since then, Port El Kantaoui has become more of a town, but it is still pleasure-oriented, its Moorish-Andalusian-style architecture providing an inviting backdrop for relaxed mooching about. At night, lights twinkle and waver in the harbour waters and visitors staying at nearby hotels arrive by taxi or horse-drawn caleche to stroll, snack, shop and buy tickets for next day's boat trips before settling on a place to dine. Perhaps at the Mediterranee or the Daurade - or one of the more recently-established restaurants in the extended shopping area. For a purpose-designed resort, Port El Kantaoui has a well-rooted feel to it. More than once it has been described as "Sidi Bou Saiid on water".

Beaches of pale, soft sand stretch all the way to Sousse, ten kilometres away. Here, the harbour was first constructed over 2,500 years ago. From it, Phoenician ships set sail and later the fleets of the Aghlabid rulers who conquered Sicily, built Sousse's Great Mosque and planned the kasbah. French and Spanish invaders also helped shape the city, regarded by many as the most interesting resort on the coast. The historic nucleus, with its 9th-century Ribat fortress and busy souks, boasts a museum with a remarkable collection of mosaics, and beyond the pivotal Place Farhat Hached, the bustling modern part of town is packed with animated cafes, bars, shops and a casino as well as several good eating places. Try Le Lido for seafood, La Marmite for a Tunisian mezze or l'Escargot for French cuisine.